Our 24v low voltage kits can be used as permanent fixtures indoors and outdoors. When string lights are required in a commercial environment or for permanent external use, we would recommend that this system is implemented.

When the string lights are used in close proximity to people, the 24v kit is a safer option, primarily because there is a low voltage running through the cable. The globes are also poly-carbonate and will not shatter. Longer lengths can also be achieved using the low voltage system due to the overall watts used.

Our 240v party light kits have an IP44 rating when installed correctly but are not recommended as a permanent outdoor solution. The 240v option is an ideal temporary solution. We always recommend that caution is exercised when installing any electrical item and that the supplied installation documents are adhered to.

In order to achieve the IP rating the systems need to be installed correctly. This may involve an electrician who will confirm your requirements.

At voltages below 40v, electrical systems are not required to be IP rated.

We all know that water and electricity doesn’t mix. When your hands are wet for example, you have a far greater risk of shock. So how do you design good lighting and power into you bathroom? Here are a few things to consider before you get going on your project.

In Australia and New Zealand at least, a licenced electrician must carry out all domestic electrical installations. There are strict rules and regulations (AS/NZS3000) that must be followed, and wet areas such as bathrooms, laundries and kitchens require special attention. A good electrician will be able to guide you as to what is allowed in your situation, so get them involved early in the design process. (That goes for the plumber too.) If you are using a designer then they should be aware of requirements as well.

However, it is also beneficial to have some basic understanding of the rules and regulations regarding wet areas so that you can take a more informed approach. Please note this is not a how to guide, rather we are trying to demonstrate the need for you to employ qualified professionals early when designing and choosing fittings.   

ZONES:

When water is in close proximity to electricity, we generally agree it’s potentially a bad situation if you are there too. When there is some distance between water and electricity we feel safer. Zones are designed to define areas with precise measurements in an effort to keep you safe. In the wiring standards AS/NZS3000 bath, shower and fixed water container section, there are four zones. Each zone has its own rules on what can and cannot be installed.  

Zone 0: Best thought of as the area that may collect water such us the shower trough, a sink or bath. 
Zone 1: Usually adjacent to Zone 0, i.e, shower walls.
Zone 2: For showers, it is the area immediately outside the shower door area. For vanities and baths, it is the area surrounding the water containment.
Zone 3: An area outside of zone 2, usually thought of as the least restrictive.  

An obvious example on the use of zones is in Zone 0, power outlets are not permitted. You do not want a power point in the base of your shower!  

Another example is lighting in Zone 0. It is permitted, but it must be designed specifically for use in a bath or shower, be low voltage and have an IPX7 (Ingress Protection) rating. Lighting in Zone 1 requires IPX4, Zone 2 requires IPX4 OR double insulated OR low voltage OR be recessed into the ceiling, and Zone 3 has no IP rating requirements.  

This is why it’s difficult to answer the question “Can I use this light fitting in my Bathroom?” without all the details of where it’s being installed. You may want a wall light either side of a mirror. The position on the left may be permitted, the same light fitting on the right side may not be permitted as it is deemed to be inside a more restrictive zone.

A good designer and/or your electrician should be able to work these issues out before you start building.   A good approach might be to draw the plan and elevations of your new bathroom and ask your electrician or designer to mark out all of the zones represented in your design. Alternatively you can mark out your bare framed bathroom with a marker or masking tape. If your electrician is not too familiar with bathroom regulations, or you feel is being over cautious, send him to standard AS/NZS 3000 section 6.2.4..  

We can retrofit a number of our standard light fittings to 12V along with low voltage globes to suit. These will comply with Zone 2 requirements. Our range of standard light fittings are generally suitable for use in Zone 3.

More details here

We all know that water and electricity doesn’t mix. When your hands are wet for example, you have a far greater risk of shock. So how do you design good lighting and power into you bathroom? Here are a few things to consider before you get going on your project.

In Australia and New Zealand at least, a licenced electrician must carry out all domestic electrical installations. There are strict rules and regulations (AS/NZS3000) that must be followed, and wet areas such as bathrooms, laundries and kitchens require special attention. A good electrician will be able to guide you as to what is allowed in your situation, so get them involved early in the design process. (That goes for the plumber too.) If you are using a designer then they should be aware of requirements as well.

However, it is also beneficial to have some basic understanding of the rules and regulations regarding wet areas so that you can take a more informed approach. Please note this is not a how to guide, rather we are trying to demonstrate the need for you to employ qualified professionals early when designing and choosing fittings.   

ZONES:

When water is in close proximity to electricity, we generally agree it’s potentially a bad situation if you are there too. When there is some distance between water and electricity we feel safer. Zones are designed to define areas with precise measurements in an effort to keep you safe. In the wiring standards AS/NZS3000 bath, shower and fixed water container section, there are four zones. Each zone has its own rules on what can and cannot be installed.  

Zone 0: Best thought of as the area that may collect water such us the shower trough, a sink or bath. 
Zone 1: Usually adjacent to Zone 0, i.e, shower walls.
Zone 2: For showers, it is the area immediately outside the shower door area. For vanities and baths, it is the area surrounding the water containment.
Zone 3: An area outside of zone 2, usually thought of as the least restrictive.  

An obvious example on the use of zones is in Zone 0, power outlets are not permitted. You do not want a power point in the base of your shower!  

Another example is lighting in Zone 0. It is permitted, but it must be designed specifically for use in a bath or shower, be low voltage and have an IPX7 (Ingress Protection) rating. Lighting in Zone 1 requires IPX4, Zone 2 requires IPX4 OR double insulated OR low voltage OR be recessed into the ceiling, and Zone 3 has no IP rating requirements.  

This is why it’s difficult to answer the question “Can I use this light fitting in my Bathroom?” without all the details of where it’s being installed. You may want a wall light either side of a mirror. The position on the left may be permitted, the same light fitting on the right side may not be permitted as it is deemed to be inside a more restrictive zone.

A good designer and/or your electrician should be able to work these issues out before you start building.   A good approach might be to draw the plan and elevations of your new bathroom and ask your electrician or designer to mark out all of the zones represented in your design. Alternatively you can mark out your bare framed bathroom with a marker or masking tape. If your electrician is not too familiar with bathroom regulations, or you feel is being over cautious, send him to standard AS/NZS 3000 section 6.2.4..  

We can retrofit a number of our standard light fittings to 12V along with low voltage globes to suit. These will comply with Zone 2 requirements. Our range of standard light fittings are generally suitable for use in Zone 3.

More details here

Low voltage LED strip lighting is now a widely used component in domestic and industrial lighting systems. These products have been manufactured as a roll of single LED’s mounted to adhesive tape that can be attached to an aluminium extrusion to create lighting of almost any length.

This type of lighting is used along cupboard feet, overhanging shelves, stair treads, bathrooms, and all manner of lighting components and fittings.

Essentially a driver/transformer supplies low voltage as either 12 or 24 volts from mains supply. In order to make dimmable we need to supply a driver that can allow dimming.

There are two methods to achieve dimmability for Low voltage LED strip lighting.

0-10 Volt dimmer

0-10V dimming is a dimming standard, originally developed for fluorescent dimming ballasts (updated from 1-10V). It has since been widely adopted for drivers of LED lighting. The 0-10V dimming driver receives a voltage level signal from 0 to 10VDC, via a compatible 0-10V dimming device, along two dedicated wires. The driver then controls the LED brightness level utilising pulse width modulation (PWM), which is basically switching on and off at a rate undetectable to the human eye.

Advantages:

1. There are many systems currently available that control 0-10V found in modern homes, hotels, shopping centres etc.
2. It is more efficient than traditional dimming methods.
3. Good stable dimming can be achieved, regardless of power load.

Disadvantages:

1. It requires two dedicated wires from the light fitting to the dimmer.
2. It is not compatible with traditional dimmers.

TRIAC or Phase Cut Dimming

A Triac is a semiconductor device that controls current flow in an AC Circuit.
Phase cutting is the technique employed for reducing current flow to traditional lights resulting in dimming. It is compatible with traditional style mains dimmers.

Advantages:

1. It can be installed into existing lighting installations that have traditional dimmers without extra wiring.
2. No new learning curve required for electricians and installers.
3. Can be controlled by phase cut dimmers in other control systems.

Disadvantages:

1. It is not as efficient as 0-10V
2. Depending on the LED power load, the dimming level may be reduced.